Subj: Things I learned.
Date: 3/4/00

Hello fellow members:
First I will thank the generous Dave Davis for letting me do, you know what, with his I don't know if I should say, so that I could experience the difference first hand to a question I asked (secret code to Dave). I cut things short because of the pain I experienced in my cheeks from the coat hanger smile that wouldn't go away until halfway home. Need I say more?

1. Window Strut Removal: (to all those who have gone before me; have a good laugh) The sun is shining, it's the first warm day, and my NSX has been polished inside and out. The day before, I took time to wax the engine bay, under the hood, in the trunk, Lexol the leather, hell I even removed what little soot was in the end of the exhaust pipe. As I walk into a separate enclosed bay of my garage, I swear I can see my NSX getting antsy for the planned days drive on twisty mountain roads in rural PA. The only thing left for me to do is to install the new struts that hold the glass hatch. This is a must, for I know that when I stop my "machine" at a picturesque rest stop, some adoring Honda fan will want to see the heart and soul of a car that most only dream about. To have the heavy glass hatch sever their head like a guillotine, is a paoxpaf I wish not to experience.
I have the service manual, the wrenches, and a rope to hold the hatch while I remove the struts; it will only take a minute. After looking at the new struts, I discover that the ball part that attaches to the window did not come with the strut, indicating that I must "pop off" the old one from the worn out strut to use with the new. Trying to pull the strut off the ball while secured to the car has zero success so I remove the whole assembly and take it to the workbench. Planning my attack on the way, I pick up my special "pull the strut off the ball tool" known as a claw hammer, a ball pein hammer (in case I get mad and throw the first one? not really), and a metric nut that screws onto the ball's thread. I screw the nut on tight, squeeze the nut tight in the vice, maneuver the claw of the hammer so that it straddles the ball, and with one quick tap it will pop free. Well.....maybe two quick taps. OK, I'll tighten the jaws tighter and give it a wallop! Two wallops, Three wallops. Nothing is changing except my mood. I glance out the window and the sun is getting higher. I think, "maybe there is a trick to getting this strut off the ball?" I think about taking the assembly to the local garage, but I envision them using a bigger hammer and my strut taking the form of the letter "L". I call the local Honda garage, but all the knowledgeable mechanics are gone. I go back to the workbench and try whacking some more, but I my as well be "whacking" because nothing is happening here! Another quick glance at the shadows on the lawn reveals that half the day has gone by. I decide to use discretion over valor (a trait I am learning to use more often), and install the strut back onto the car while it is still useable. I get part of my ride in and feel much better when I return.

The days pass and a new weekend approaches. I call Davis Acura in hopes of talking to Bernie for he will know what to do. Bernie is busy at the moment, so I tie the rope to the hatch, remove both struts, and await Bernie's call. As the minutes go by, I think, "maybe I could con Bernie into popping them off for me?" I call Davis back, tell them I'm enroute, and I'll talk to Bernie when I get there. Two and a half hours later I pull into the dealership. I walk up to the service counter and the gentleman on the other side tells me Bernie will be out in a moment. Now how the heck does he know that I'm here to see Bernie? Do I have the easily identifiable look that says, "I'm a greenhorn NSX owner that is trying to do something that I've never done before?" Well anyway, Bernie comes out and tells me the secret trick for removal. The special NSX "pull the strut off the ball" removal tool is called a hack saw! When Bernie installs struts he uses the kit that includes the ball! Dah!!
I trade the strut set for the ball and strut set, drive home, quickly install it (16 ftlb on the ball, 7.2 ftlb on the bolts), and I'm ready for a nice drive this weekend.

2. Alternative to buying a convex mirror: I had seen many convex mirrors stuck on the existing side mirrors of cars and trucks. The reason is to be able to see overtaking cars that move into the "blind" spot as they are about to pass. My sister will not own a car without them. Although the idea was appealing to me, I hesitated to install them because they would block a substantial portion of the normal viewing area. In one of my auto mags, I read about a technique for adjusting the mirrors that I use now with much satisfaction. I had been using my outside mirrors more like the inside rear view mirror. They were adjusted so that when I looked in each mirror, I could just see the edge of each side of my car. The overtaking car would go into the blind spot just before my peripheral vision would detect the car beside me. To keep from hitting cars while changing lanes I would have to turn my head to the side and check for cars. Sometimes this became very dangerous when a car quickly slowed down in front of me while my head was turned. The solution will follow. I didn't like it at first, in fact, the first time I tried it I could only drive about 10 minutes with my outside mirrors adjusted this way before I felt uncomfortable enough to put them back the old way. Gradually I learned to trust the adjustment and now I can follow a car from approach to passing without loosing sight of the car, or turning my head. The other benefit that came from the adjustment was that on two lane roads, headlights were not continually shinning in my eyes from my outside mirrors. When adjusted properly you will first detect the car in your rearview mirror. As the car passes, you should start to see the front of the car in your side view mirror just before you loose sight of the rear of the car in your rearview. As the car continues to pass, you should see the front of the car in your peripheral vision before loosing sight of the rear of the car in the side view mirror. The method described below is the initial adjustment. Driving on a four lane road, you will be able make the final adjustments by watching cars pass and seeing if you loose sight of them in one mirror before detecting them in the next mirror.

INITIAL ADJUSTMENT
1. Adjust the rearview mirror so that you can see equal amounts, left and right of center.
2. Lean to the left so that your ear is almost touching the left window and adjust the left side view mirror so that you can just see the left side of your car.
3. Lean to the right so that your head is in the center of the car and adjust the right side view mirror so that you can just see the right side of your car.

The only drawback I've found in this adjustment is when I park in a tight spot and have to see how close an object is to the side of my car. The options are: lean to a side to get the view you want, or if you have electric mirrors, temporarily move one in. If you have electric mirrors with two memory settings, you've got it made! Then tell your significant other to use their own car and stop playing with your mirrors!

Good luck, Larry G.
92 Wht/Blk 43K
92 Accord 303K